Reboot – Two Months on the Road

Hey all,

I’m rebooting this blog as a mostly-travel blog – although I will still post articles and creative writing pieces/poems, of course, while on the road.  Let’s just say that recently, it looks as if a major, long term travel-related project is in my imminent future (more on this later).

Now for those visitors to my blog who have paid attention, you have realized that I haven’t posted regularly lately.  Actually this would be generous. I have stopped and started and sputtered and roared and then, horribly, coughed to a dead stop like a cheap, pathetic old V-8.  Let  me assure you, this situation shall be remedied shortly.

Until the details are ironed out and I know a bit more about what the path ahead will entail for me (and my partner in crime and in life (gypsytrampthief.wordpress.com) –  I’ll be posting some of my favorite travel writing I’ve done over the years.  Hope you enjoy, and thanks for sticking with this blog even with my prolonged absence from its pages.

To officially kick off this new chapter in the evolving story of this persnickety beast of a blog, here is a video covering  the nearly two consecutive months of solid travel I notched up a couple of summers ago (June 1-  July 20th, 2011).  all around this beautiful U.S. of A

It was a long and rambling backpack from NYC to Bonnaroo Music Festival in Tennessee to San Diego, CA, to Yosemite Valley, and finally to the Oregon Coast, the Oregon Cascades and Willamette Valley. Pictures are by my brother, Chris Ten Eyck of San Diego, CA, and myself, BeejMcKay of New York, NY.

THE WRONG CHOICE – Tales of a Third-Grade Nothing, Part Two

THE WRONG CHOICE,

OR, Tales of a Third Grade Nothing, Part Two:

* * * * * * * * * *

My friends and I all had our favorite classroom locations and attitudes.

For example, on this particular morning, Eric sat by the large windows, staring out into the green courtyard dividing the two low cement buildings comprising our elementary school. The grass in the courtyard sprouted long and fat and wild and choked with overgrown yellow dandelions. It had rained and the colors bled silently into the grey sky.

I had assumed my favorite position as well: head down, arms folded, staring at my desktop. My own plan for  massing a rebellion among the third-grade students against the evil tyranny of one Ms. G. Smith had not gone so well, mainly because I hadn’t acted on it.

But I did credit myself with helping to craft an anti-establishment mood. Indeed, in the first signs of non-violent struggle several students had abstained from doing the short homework lab on ice crystals assigned by Ms. G. Smith, although in retrospect I’m not sure if these students would have completed the lab either way.

Normally quite a conscientious student, I myself had done little assigned work since I decided I was at war with my teacher, and the work I completed was shoddy. My mother was mystified when informed of this at a parent-teacher conference. Perhaps she hoped my self-destructive rebellion would go away on its own, because she never confronted me about it.

I was staring down at my desk because I  had just returned to Ms. G. Smith’s fourth grade classroom after a one-day vacation away for a youth writing conference held at Linfield College in the nearby town of McMinnville, Oregon, and I had not fared so well at this conference.

Now, I wasn’t sure which of my former teachers had picked me to be the representative from my elementary school, but I had been glad for the day off. Unfortunately I had not mentally prepared for the amount of work I would be expected to do, and I was thrown off by the rigor of the workshops and the lectures.

The worst part had turned out to be the public reading of our original works. For the conference I had been required to assemble a portfolio of my work and prepare an original short piece, be it a poem or a story. I had never written a poem before, so the night before the conference I came up with an off-the-cuff one about a priest – or maybe a wizard? – riding a horse through a medieval town in the middle of the night, delivering medicine or milk or something.

I hastily finished this literary gem in the shuttle van from my school to Linfield College that morning, and I thought it wasn’t half bad for the amount of time I had invested in it. Besides, it was part of my new nonchalance about school. I might do it, I might not. Either way I wouldn’t stress out.

At that time, of course,  I was unaware I would have to publicly present it, having failed to read the information packet that the conference organizers had sent me.

Only when I stood up to deliver the poem to a packed room of professors, teachers and other students at the conference did I discover that the little poem I had hastily scribbled off was not, in fact, pretty good under any theoretical reading you subjected it to, but instead, probably the worst thing ever committed to paper. E.E. Cummings would have shat all over this  poem.

Even more ominously for me and my literary reputation, other students had evidently worked for days, possibly weeks, agonizing over every word and phrase, conducting research in their public libraries, taking oratory classes, directing their mothers to buy them little grey suits with bowties, and generally producing poems and stories that bounced and sang and, as a bonus, were about something. Furthermore, they had practiced.

I, on the other hand,  had to rifle frantically through my backpack right before the presentation just to find the pathetic crumpled little half-page I had written, and when I reached the microphone my voice quavered as if I were going to burst into tears and my hands shook so badly I was soon forced to put the paper down on the lectern.

Then, sadly, I couldn’t read the words anymore, because I had written them in my usual tiny scrunched handwriting and they just sort of ran down the page into a trickle of unintelligible ink until finally disappearing into a smeary blur, just beyond the focusing range of the human eye. So I tried to remember the rest of it off the top of my head.

I never looked at the crowd once. To them it must have appeared as if a disheveled little mentally ill kid had wandered onto the stage and, head down, muttered to himself for two minutes.

When I finally finished to a sort of baffled and sporadic clapping from the audience (ludicrously generous, considering what had just transpired in front of them), I stalked out the doors, the crowd a fuzzy gaggle to the side of me.

I tramped all over the pleasantly wooded campus, seriously considering trying to walk back home or at least hitch a ride, neither of which I was confident I could do at nine years of age. So Instead I sat under a fat leafy tree in the warm sun, rubbing two quarters together in my pocket.

I debated over whether I would still go to the workshop scheduled for me across the campus. Could I simply blow it off? Why not? After all, I had never wanted to come to this thing in the first place. Somebody, I surmised (probably my old first grade and third grade teachers who loved me) had simply picked me as the student to go, and I knew that whatever my abilities, it was a bad choice.

Somewhere back in the pre-dawn of my life, I supposed, God had struck lightning into a tablet and decreed that I would be a writer, and the adults in my life did their best to help execute that decree. The only cog in the plan was that part of me that felt corralled, stifled. I did not want to feel obliged to participate anymore in someone else’s enthusiasm about my abilities, and I felt somehow resentful at being set apart from my classmates for the “honor” of attending this conference. Though my conscience whispered vaguely that I should feel grateful, I did not in the slightest. I felt pushed and pulled by others, encouraged and helped to the point of exhaustion. I wanted to be completely independent of their expectations, however well-meaning.

At the same time, though, it felt dangerously lonely to be out here in the quiet on the practically empty campus. I watched from my tree, an outsider, as the other kids dutifully shuffled back and forth from building to building.

Why couldn’t I be happy with my choice? After all, all these other kids were trying painfully to free-write and listen to lecturers tell them that it wasn’t too early to plan for college. I was free, out in nature. Why couldn’t I just live with my choice, be strong and decided about it?

I left the lawn with its huge trees and began pacing the path around the building – my building, the one I was supposed to be in at that moment. Moments later, I found myself at the entrance, and then inside the darkened lobby.

Still I could not bring myself to abandon my dream of independence quite yet. I stopped in front of a glowing red soda vending machine and stood there staring at it. The machine hummed warmly. The Cokes only cost a quarter! A barely glimpsed new world opened up before me; I thought about how fine it would be to buy one of those Cokes right then and there, with my own quarters that lay in my pocket.It was only a quarter, but it was mine. And so would the soda.

I bought two Cokes right there. Rejuvenated, I strode into the workshop Cokes in hand, gloriously late, and sat as far in the back as possible, trying to make the whole thing look as if I had planned it.

Of course, nobody cared or noticed. But I did. I felt as though a burden of responsibility had been lifted from my shoulders. I had failed! Henceforth, I would be utterly free to fail whenever and wherever I liked if it suited me. Still basking, I bought two more Cokes before the ride home.

But now, in a few moments, while I waited with my head down, I knew that I was meant to deliver a report about what I had learned.

The little Formica-slab desktop was heavily traumatized, scarred, and chipped into. Out of the dim I discerned words, etched deep in the white plastic during some other class, years before, while some other teacher besides mine, perhaps wearing bell-bottoms and earnest round John Lennon spectacles, attempted to seize the attention of 21 nine-year-olds. When particularly bored in class I read all of the words over and over again: F-U-C-K, one said, in jagged, evil death-metal letters dug right down through the laminate and into the wood.

I raised my head a little off the desk, lowered it again, slowly. The jagged letters swam out of focus.

I wonder a lot about the kid who carved that word there. Mostly I wonder about his motives: what could have been the all-consuming importance of this F-U-C-K to the one who labored to produce it under threat of expulsion? What unthinkable rebellions fomented in his brain? And: under what demonic influence had he dared to pass his innermost blasphemy on to future generations, and for what purpose? Was it simply for the joy of rebelling against some unwritten standard?

Suddenly I was standing in front of the class. I hadn’t anticipated that I would be required to speak about my experience, and bitterly I sensed it as a personal attack from Ms. G. Smith.

The lowness of it! So I stood there for a moment, struggling against the urge to say something nasty to the teacher, to all of them staring at me. The truth was that I had all but checked out of the writer’s conference after the poem presentation debacle, but I didn’t want to go into all that. So I produced one of the few experiences I could remember that was untainted by discomfort.

“It was really cool.” I told the class. “There were these Coke machines and they had Cokes for a quarter. I drank four of ‘em.”

The students all laughed. After a second, I joined in. We were nine years old, after all.

But Ms. G. Smith did not laugh.

“Is that all you can tell us about it, Mr. Spencer?”

A small part of my conscience recoiled as if slapped. No, of course not. There were workshops and speakers (and humiliations) I could go on all day about. But instead I just shrugged – a gesture fast becoming my favorite response to any question from a teacher.

Ms. G. Smith’s eyes hardened, but did not blaze. She only appeared thoughtful.

“Perhaps, then, I should have picked some other student to go to the conference.”

Now, I didn’t like Ms. G. Smith. I think that is well established by now. But still, her disappointment stabbed into me.

I shrugged nonchalantly again, but my face flushed. As quickly as the shame had come, anger – anger at myself for being ashamed, anger at the world that would place kids into such situations- replaced it.

What did I care?  I didn’t choose to go, and I hadn’t chosen to stand up and tell the class! And anyway, I hated Ms. G. Smith! Why should I ever care about her opinion?

For some reason I did care, though, and my shame had proved it. Suddenly I found I had no more heart for defiance.

I returned to my seat and brooded over my unfinished ice crystal lab. I imagined that I would barely pass the third grade.

* * * * * * * * * *

06.05.2011 – Stumptown Coffee Making Inroads in New York

Stumptown Coffee Making Inroads in New York

by Benjamin J Spencer

The Stumptown Brew Bar in Red Hook.       Photo: Stumptowncoffee.com

Red Hook, Brooklyn –  In a sparsely-populated industrial corner of Red Hook, Brooklyn, within sight of sprawling docks and looming ocean-bound freighters, sits a small, unassuming brownstone building. From its looks, it probably used to be an auto shop. Now, from inside wafts not the stench of axle grease, but the thick, dark tang of roasting coffee.

Some might deem the Brooklyn working waterfront an unlikely place for a coffee roaster. But actually it makes perfect sense, since these Stumptown beans, green and oily when delivered, hail from around the world – from small family and co-op coffee estates where owners and workers are paid a premium for their product that is unmatched in the industry.

Steve Goodwine is a barista behind the counter at the Brew Bar, which takes up a small storefront adjacent to the roasting garage here in Red Hook.

“There are two guys in our company who spend about nine months out of the year travelling to different coffee farms around the world,” he says.

At these small farms, batches of coffee are rigorously tested for quality. The conditions of the farm (organic methods, plenty of shade) and workers (well-taken care of) are checked, and new business relationships are forged with small growers. Stumptown set up this year-old Brew Bar specifically to educate the public on the uniqueness of that model in the coffee importing world – and of course, sell some more coffee.

The beans are also roasted with a care and consistency rare in the world of coffee, and at an exceedingly small scale compared to the mega-conglomerates that feed Manhattan’s endless train of Dunkin’ Donuts.  It seems improbable that from this modest and laid-back feeling roasting facility, every wholesale and café- bound order of Stumptown Coffee in New York City is delivered.

“The roasters are just really efficient,” says Brian Philippi, another barista here. “They work really hard.”

So do the brewers, if today’s demonstration is any indication. As he talks, Philippi, bewhiskered and lanky, stands behind a wooden counter currently decked out like some kind of mad doctor’s lab. The Brew Bar coffee is all ground and brewed to order right in front of sometimes bemused customers, but you won’t see any familiar drip machines here.

Overhead racks of fat glass beakers, plastic plunger tubes and presses of all sizes, and other technical paraphernalia attest to Stumptown’s painstakingly scientific approach to creating the perfect cup. Visitors can test four different labor-intensive methods of brewing up to 16 varieties of single-source, direct-trade gourmet beans.

One simple method involves slowly pouring near-boiling water over a pile of dark, coarse-ground joe, while another, called the Aeropress, resembles a large syringe with a stopper that squeezes hot water through wetted grounds with a column of pressurized air.

As the afternoon wears on, bicyclers enjoying the mild weather chain up and file inside in chattering groups. A sense of community takes hold in the little bar. One man tells the three brewers behind the counter that despite his best efforts at home, he can’t quite get his own Aeropress to make a cup as perfect as theirs.

“The difference between here and home is that here, everything’s precise,” he says. “Maybe because there aren’t three kids shooting soccer balls at me.”

Although anyone can order Portland-based Stumptown’s whole bean, direct-trade coffee  via the Internet, New York and Seattle are the only other localities where the company has a physical presence –  and New York’s inclusion was based more on serendipity than any business plan, according to Matt Lounsbury, Stumptown’s director of operations in its Portland headquarters.

Lounsbury explains that the success of Seattle-based boutique luxury Ace Hotels inspired the chain to start another hotel in Portland in 2007, and they asked Stumptown to run a coffee bar in their lobby. The hotel, and the bar, was a great success, and when Ace set up on 29th Street near Madison Square in mid-town Manhattan two years ago, they asked Stumptown to work the old magic again.

“At first we were like, what? New York City?” says Lounsbury. “We’re just this little coffee company from Portland. For a while we couldn’t quite put our minds around it.”

When they did decide to take the plunge, immediate problems arose. The biggest problem: finding space for their roaster.  Normally, Lounsbury says, if Stumptown can’t build a roaster in a location, they won’t even consider moving any operations there, and for space and financial reasons, Manhattan was simply out of the question. “It’s a freshness thing,” he says.

So they scoured Brooklyn instead, and found the perfect location in Red Hook.

Though the recently opened Brew Bar and the Ace Hotel lobby are so far the only company retail locations in the city, Stumptown does an increasingly brisk wholesale business to area restaurants. In the two years since Stumptown’s introduction to New York City, the business has grown to include wholesaling to dozens of cafes and restaurants in the five boroughs. Several locations in the East 20’s near Baruch College serve at least a Stumptown house brew, including Star Café and the the Mexican chain Dos Caminos on 27th Street and East Third Avenue. In fact, it has become rather a badge of honor to serve Stumptown.

Craig Cochran, the owner of Terri, a successful new vegetarian, vegan and organic sandwich café on West 23rd St. and 6th Avenue, says in an email that since he and his business partner had named their café after their moms (both named Terri), “we only wanted the highest quality products to be associated with us.”

Cochran says that as he relied on his “coffee connoisseur” friends for advice, Stumptown came up again and again.  He had crafted Terri’s menu carefully to appeal to vegetarians and non-vegetarians, with sandwiches that come off like healthy comfort food while being something he could feel proud to serve. So he knew they had to get the coffee right – and preferably socially responsible.

“When I found out that Stumptown also has the highest standards associated with every aspect of their coffee production,” says Cochran, “I knew that this was the right brand to serve at Terri.”

Lounsbury says Stumptown simply got to New York at the right time. Even if their research shows that the term “direct trade” hasn’t quite penetrated into the coffee lingo around here yet, nevertheless, in the past few years, more direct-trade coffee has made it into independent cafes city-wide.

Competitors include North Carolina’s CounterCulture Coffee (served at midtown’s Café Lucid, among other venues) and Chicago-based Intelligentsia Coffee, – along with Stumptown, one of the pioneers of the direct-trade model – with vendors like 9th Street Coffee in Manhattan’s East Village and their own small coffee bar in the Chelsea Market.

“We are definitely responding to a lot of energy around local food in New York, especially in the last year,” said Lounsbury. “We’re starting to see a lot more traction. All across the country there’s a lot of interest in specialty coffees and brewing methods. It bodes well for us as roasters, but also it bodes well for coffee lovers and for independent farmers.”

Not to mention the coffee-lovers on this sleepy stretch of Van Brunt Street in Red Hook. The customers, who might pay up to four dollars for their mug of fresh-ground, exactingly-brewed Stumptown Coffee (depending on the brewing method), don’t seem to mind the extra cost at all.

As one bearded and square-spectacled gent explains to me,  “You pay for precision.”

10.01.2004 – As Far As Monmouth: A D.H. Lawrencian Rant – Literary Parody

AS FAR AS MONMOUTH (A LAWRENCIAN RANT)

  By Benjamin J Spencer

      Bright dry dawn breaks as we motor toward the queen ant’s former home this Thanksgiving morning. The freeway shoulder glistens cold grey.  Frost tendrils creep across the earth, advance riders on the front flanks of winter’s full legion, silently scouting and reconnoitering the land. The thinnest icy surface settles fleetingly on the bare trunks and bare fields all about the freeway.

Drab trampled fields, spiky and harvest-ravaged, lay naked and exhausted, spread cruelly open to the repeated freeze and thaw of night and day. The sky blazes bright and translucent as skim milk. The sun wilts, half-hearted, it’s warmth a distant prospect.

Far out in the fields under hanging mists, large metal objects glint: abandoned tractors and combines, pipes and sprinklers, hulks of trucks, all  immobile, all waiting for the men to make them come alive.

On our left, Mount Hood floats in a separate plane beyond field and forest.  Silver haze obscures her massive base, but the edges of her glaciered slopes are cut supernaturally sharp, indented into the white-blue sky.  She floats as sleek and remote and pastel as a children’s book rendering of Olympus. Certainly she is a commanding image when apprehended straight on, but the moment I look away she flees my rational mind, dissolving into my unconscious as quickly as rain evaporates from a desert floor. From my window she exists only in two dimensions, a phantasmagoric rice-paper print all but flickering in and out of existence – pretty but false.

****

     The q.a. sighs and murmurs in slumber, curled shrimp-like in the passenger’s seat. Our little defrosting jets blow valiantly, but the windows are yet cloudy after half an hour of driving.

A stench of hot oil and exhaust reaches us. A sport utility vehicle roars past us without so much as a signal.  Little orange flags flutter wildly from either side of its massive hood.

All those little flags on all those countless sports utility vehicles! Think of all the labor, the cloth and the dye expended to furnish those flags for the faithful. Think of all the hapless freeway drivers they will distract.  Think of the children they will endanger.

The American values his college sporting event above all else. Occupation, family, health, all these necessities trail in the American’s eyes behind the bright sinister advertisements of the college publicity machines. They race their vehicles with a terrible conviction. They bully and weave like fighters, and when they reach the stadium they jeer and bellow and smear their faces with paint, eyes bulging white and rolling like a frightened horse’s. They are given little banners to wave and little chants to shout and little kicking cheerleaders to ogle. They conceal their paunches in their belts, eager to participate in this overproduced, manufactured revelry. Ah, the happy multitudes! How utterly miserable!

****

     Arrive in Monmouth and are of course stopped by a police officer, less than a hundred meters into the town.

The cruiser lights spin silently blue and red, blue and red on our dashboard. The gravel crunches under our tires as we park, waking the q.a. who stares reproachfully at me.

The officer takes his time.  He demonstrates his power over us with the utmost trained casualness.  The warning lies not in his face; no, his face holds all the expression of a blackjack dealer.  It lies in his bearing, his posture ramrod straight and physically imposing.  It lies in his movements, the darting of his head as he examines my papers, the sinew just below the skin of his neck.  It lies in his flashlight, which he shines periodically straight into my shrinking pupils. His hands are sheathed in thin woolen gloves.

“California plates,” he notes, lips pursed disapprovingly.

“What were we stopped for?” asks the q.a.

“License plate light is out.” woolen gloves replies.

To his obvious dismay our papers are impeccable.  The woolen gloves impatiently wave us on.

Later we examine the plates. The lights are working properly. The q.a. gasps. “Why, you’d think it was a crime to have a different state license!” she rages.

****

     Arrive at the q.a.’s childhood home. A black-haired pixie of seventeen sucks on to us like a lamprey. The lamprey is the q.a.’s sister.  She squeals and pesters us until finally I escape into the restroom.  Flowers on the counter, and scented toilet paper, and U.S. Catholic magazines back to July.

We are summoned to dinner.  The large Irish-Catholic family is assembled. A shriveled and horrid-looking corned beef and cabbage plate shares the table with turkey and gravy, mashed potatoes and pink cranberry punch.

The turkey is quite fine and juicy, but there is only a smidgen of it for us before it is gone.  The old buzzards, the grandfathers and uncles, hoard the darkest and finest meat in heaps on their plates. They bury their precious hoards under towering drifts of mashed potatoes and steaming gravy, and deposit the green peas hastily in the pockets remaining. They proceed to chew noisily, smacking and slurping with gusto, and talking all the while.

Long ago was the day the buzzards decided they were too old to observe manners and civility and all that nonsense. I suppose when more hair sprouts from my ears than does from my pate I will sympathize.

****

In the dim smoky family room the old buzzards lounge in recliners and on sofas, swelling bellies stuck up like islands, belts loosened and dropped to the hips.  They drone on about the sad state of American politics.

In from the other room floats snippets of the ladies discussing the latest films and the laughter of the little cousins.  The little cousins look like miniature door-to-door encyclopedia salesmen, in their little cheap rumpled khaki suits, and the gleaming gelled hair sculpted artfully by their mothers. Their little heads resemble pale sausage ends squeezing out of plaid cardigans. But of course they still behave as little children, running this way and that, and jumping over us, and flatulating impressively for the amusement of the others and to the horror of the aunts around the table. The older children have been banished willingly to the small back room where they sit crosslegged and openmouthed, faces bathed in the pixel glow of a video game.

The q.a.’s mother hoists three enormous pumpkin pies out of the refrigerator and positions them impressively on the dessert counter. She steps back proudly and calls for the diners to return if they can.

Alarmed, the buzzards stare at each other, place their hands on swelling bellies, sigh heavily. It must be done.  It is their only job on this day of thanks and joy. They must partake of the women’s culinary labors or the social order will break down.

Groaning and huffing, they somehow lift their bodies out of the easy chairs and lumber into the kitchen.

****

     A fire of cedar logs has been lit; the great flat slab of a stone hearth warms our backsides and we grow sleepy. This bland holiday grows more humdrum and obligatory with each passing year.  Yet I suppose there is comfort in tradition.

The Irish family’s bank of shared tradition is rather impressive. The family myths and folklore, that very Irish feeling of family destiny and prominence; these are not so much actively learned as they are absorbed by a child growing up, as if from the very air of the house or the grain in the wood. They belong, if I may say, in the category of extra-sensory perception.

The arbitrary cultural illusions of history and familial bonds become concrete realities to an Irishman. His sense of self and his place in the world are ultimately maintained or destroyed by them.

****

     Blue wood-smoke curls out of the chimney.  The q.a.’s father chops wood on the porch. The cracking sound of the splitting logs, and the hollow thock as the kindling strikes the concrete, satisfy my soul.  Here is how civilization began, with wild male strength and surety, with physical labor and reckless power in the free open spaces of the world.

This domestication, these gatherings and niceties and neat wedges of pumpkin pie, these pious murmurings of thanks and submission, these plaid cardigans and rumpled sausage-casing suits, they do not become us men. We must bring wildness back into the world.

I let the chill wind numb my face and gaze upon the dimming western horizon. The broad pink sky fades to purple and then blackens entirely. The house lights wink on.

05.24.2004 – From Portland Onward: A Walt Whitman-esque Journey

FROM PORTLAND ONWARD: A WHITMAN-ESQUE JOURNEY

PART 1:  MUSIC AT THE CRYSTAL BALLROOM – HAWTHORNE BOULEVARD – THE NIGHT SKY

To-night I attended a magnificent ball presided over by the most wonderfully talented musicians.
     Some remembrances of the evening: young bright couples stomping and knocking together in the most joyous manner, a vast resonant hall dimly illuminated by electric lamps (the murky yellow glow heightening the mystic, if I may say medieval, effect of the cavernous enclosure), sublimely talented musicians on the amplified guitar and percussion (outlandishly clad in heavy silks, stainless steel spikes and leather), and an overall agitated and vehement atmosphere difficult to qualify.
     The tooth’d and splinter’d edge of the guitar, the red, transported features of the bouncing multitudes – male and female leaping and pressing together with no thought of shame – the pulsing, vibrating thunder of scores of heavy boots and thick soles impacting the polished wooden surfaces of the ballroom floor, the musky odor of well-earn’d perspiration, all in their essence compositing a marvelous cacophony which singularly excited and pummeled my senses for some happy hours.
>>>>>>>>>>
     Returning home, riding down Hawthorne Blvd. in an open carriage with two dear old acquaintances , I was compelled on numerous occasions to exit the aft compartment spontaneously, with the aim of more readily observing the alluring carnival of multi-colored yuletide lights strung festively over the brick’d and plaster’d facades of that famed avenue.
     The miniature unearthly-hued bulbs, fuzzy and moonlight-softened, out-shimmering even the stars, resembling nothing less than phosphorescent precipitant frozen whilst dripping from invisible wires (stretched as they were full down the length of the block – throwing colors on the concrete sidewalks, gaudy, pink, warm), the radiance of the glowing rectangular signs sharply delineated from the ink’d black of August night, carved out starkly in the contrast of light and shadow,  the massive silent bulk of the edifices, soothed my rous’d and exhausted wits and conferr’d a solemn mythic presence on the evening.
>>>>>>>>>

     Later that night…

As I write I am reclining on my open porch observing the night sky.

Toward the South,that impervious half-human warrior Orion with his starry belt and scabbard (mammoth Betelgeuse announcing
his unsurpass’d power boldly from the sword haft), stares down over a span of centuries, the model of implacability and stern manly authority, challenging all the heavens with all the fierce dispassionate pagan cruelty and freedom he can conjure, a centaur, true kin of Pan and all the wild things – overshadow’d only by Luna in all her magnificence and sheen, singular, inimitable.

PART 2: A JAUNT EASTWARD – THE PORT OF PORTLAND; OUT ON THE COLUMBIA; GRASSLAND; THE NATURE OF A HARDY PEOPLE

Left North-West Portland shortly before 9 o’clock in the morning, middle of August, in a comfortable sleeper.

Crossing the mighty river vein, route of busy trade and bastion of prosperity for the entire region – the Willamette as the natives name it, glistening in the clear, placid morning sunlight, great brown surface eddying and swirling, an enormous coiled snake shuddering and boiling with ancient wisdom and strength.

A good view of the industrial district from the Steel Bridge – waves of midsummer heat warping the great red cargo bins – and the rusted hulking cranes, so still, so silent, so sunken and establish’d in the dense sooty earth, it scarcely seems they were ever employ’d as working machinery, but rather uprooted from the crust of the earth and twisted into shape by some massive hand.

     And the bridge, that magnificent rust-red structure crafted by bold and enterprising American in anticipation of the booming rail commerce – I perceive the fix’d bolts, the slanted girders, the mammoth steel cables –  and envision the brute strength, the technical knowledge and the dazzling artistry expended to raise this marvelous – and singularly American – structure!
>>>>>>>>>
     A hazed half-clouded morning surrenders by afternoon to a brilliant lucidity of sunlight and scraped sky.
     The mighty silver-blooded artery of the Columbia – that life bringer to myriad Indian tribes, the patient, ever-teeming deliverer of salmons, sturgeons, and eels that nourish the world – flows broadly to my left, its girth so formidable that the forests and hills on the far side are near engulf’d in mists, hardly to be seen.
     As I travel the length of the river, the towering dam structures rise monolith-like – simple, smooth and rectangular at their peaks, but ever churning deep within their massive depths. The secret turbines pumping, the compartments beneath the waters, the huge lifts and traps, the power of the river, transforming the raw rushing flood into crackling super-charged electric current – the bare humming current, the very force of life master’d and transported through pure democratic ingenuity – the source of hearth-heat and precious luminescence to many millions of citizens.
     To my right the stark sheer crags of the river gorge rise a thousand and more feet, festoon’d with clinging firs and cedars, ever moisten’d with roaring cascades of pure snow-melt (springing from nameless icy dells and trackless fords of the distant Cascades, their peaks barely to be seen through the vaporous haze, thrusting snow-capp’d into the heavens), terminating in spectacular pools and grottoes, pounding, spraying against the smooth flat slabs of the tributary beds.
     It is true that in Europe, feudal castles lay in ruins all about the bruis’d and bloodied countryside.  Nonetheless it must be allow’d that there remains a charmingly refined and sculpted beauty – but I ask, what is the manufactur’d  art of all Europe in comparison to this breadth, the wonder of these raw natural forms marching endlessly in chaotic glory under the scrubb’d rose-tinted and wispy-clouded heavens?
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We are past the mountains now and descending rapidly to the level floor of Eastern grassland.

      The earth is parch’d, crack’d and dusty, streaked white and pale bronze – the hot earth sighs with long thirst, the winds bluster strong, bending brittle grasses in rippling waves as far as perception goes – yet out of this apparent wasteland, sturdy men, strong self-reliant individuals, in epic fulfillment of their natures, unfetter’d by the outmoded strictures of feudal dynasty, have wrenched an unprecedented treasure of wheat and edible grasses that sprout strong and full out of the revived soil.
     They have wrested control of the rivers and streams, bent them to match lofty visions, manufactur’d tunnels and ruts, marshland, and all with the aim of feeding the world.
     The sheer creativity of the citizen of a democratic race, the overwhelming resources and spaces available to his purposes (incalculably larger than the cramp’d and overcrowded European continent), naturally foster a wide mind and a sturdy character the likes of which can rarely be matched in recorded history.
     Perhaps only within the soil of the civic-minded Hellenic civilizations there gestated a germ of what would eventually burst into full flower in the age of American prominence.